“Every Spring, the women of New York leave the foolish choices of their past behind and look forward to the future… This is known as Fashion Week”.
Though Fall is beckoning, Carrie Bradshaw’s quote from the well-known Sex and the City series engenders well the feeling of being in the city that never sleeps during fashion season. Men and women from around the planet dash dizzyingly about town, in the finest of their wardrobes, between and through runway shows, pop-ups, parties and other events. Amidst the splendor, Detroit-based fashion label Deviate presented on September 10th at the historic Altman Building their latest Spring/Summer 2023 collection.
This environmentally-sustainable American brand explores current issues and aims to challenge social norms. And their ethos was maintained in this season’s runway show: Founders Cassidy and Kelsey Tucker are sisters and, with their all-female team, presented a range of well-executed unisex clothing, reimagining silhouettes and construction through, as described by the designer Kelsey, “fantasy pieces.” Kelly Cutrone, publicist, reality star, and founder of the People’s Revolution PR agency, recruited her daughter and Parsons student Ava Cutrone to run the event on the sunny first Saturday of Fashion Week.
The Deviate Spring/Summer 2023 collection reinvented classic pieces via a modern approach: Dress shirts, skirts, dresses, pants, and even a hoodie presented a sort of a deconstruction; oversized sleeves, for example, and straight-leg pants with an opening that begins under the right leg’s knee. Black, white and ivory pieces were the stars of the show, featured in most of the outfits, while infused hues of lilac, fuchsia, violet, orange, and blue, as well as cooler shades of yellow and green and color mixes, were presented as well.
The designer played with combinations of textures and plaited fabrics, complimenting flawlessly the light textiles used in some of the creations. Loopers formed part of the composition of a fashion subset, appearing in different formats throughout the show, as seen in the photo above. The remarkable all-jeans set was not left out, nor were the body-conscious trims, also known as “bodycon,” leaving simplicity behind with sleeves-over-hands and floor-length skirts.
Distressed-looking clothing and strings have been a trend for the most recent fashion seasons, and Deviate innovated upon the look by integrating it into structured and loose-fit pieces. Alternating between clean & minimalistic and extravagant clothing, this label sets the standard for contemporary fashion, exploring tailoring in previously unseen ways. All materials are ethically-sourced and Detroit-based artisans produce the apparel. Featured in Vogue in 2021, shares how the brand’s missions is to elevate Detroit’s reputation as a respected fashion city and to “add a new dimension to this truth through the artful design elements and expert tailoring” they bring to every piece.
Deviate has launched a Talent Incubator to support women and minorities and, for the past two years, has partnered with the Boys and Girls Club, expanding fashion opportunities by offering a paid apprenticeship for youth interested in following a career in this industry. The socially responsible label has developed a structure which allows the brand to be built up concurrently with the community.
Check out the looks from Deviate’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection: